Thursday, August 27, 2009

Swell Rating System


Ocean physics nerdiness! Estimating the size of breaking waves from data buoy swell info: http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/papers/category.html

Source: www.stormsurf.com

According to this system, Sunday's peak swell of 9.5 feet at 17 seconds should have translated into category 4, or 10-15'. Throw in the occasional 18 footer, and that sounds about right to us.